Kayleigh reports from Saint Lucia
Kayleigh HodsonKayleigh visits St. Lucia in the Caribbean for an in-depth look at what makes this tropical paradise a premier destination for discerning travellers.
Having previously enjoyed trips to Cuba and Mexico, I was excited to visit my first Caribbean island. Come with me on a whistle-stop journey through the lush, bountiful St. Lucia.
We landed around 3pm and drove in our private air-conditioned vehicle north towards Castries, the capital. The scenery driving up the East Coast was stunning and showcased the island’s green and mountainous rainforest with an abundance of banana and cocoa plantations. The mountain tops were misted, and scattered throughout the hillsides were colourful fishing villages—a clear indication of St. Lucia’s vibrant character. If you get the chance to visit one of the local markets, I would highly recommend it – daily life is full colour and excitement!
Saint Lucia Market
My first two nights were spent at Windjammer Landings. This luxury hotel offered the best of both worlds: located on a lovely cove of sandy beach, with tropical greenery on the hillside where most of the accommodation was nestled. In addition to the traditional Caribbean-style rooms, they have recently added new villas right on the beachfront, which I had the pleasure of staying in.
The hotel is excellent for families, with numerous water sports on offer. Little ones are treated to pre-bedtime milk and cookies, along with miniature dressing gowns and slippers, and even a bedtime story from the hotel’s kids club mascot—Jacquot the Parrot.
One thing that became very clear during this trip is that St. Lucian people are incredibly friendly and always want to know how you are and if they can do anything to make your day better. I instantly felt at ease, surrounded by people I felt I had known for years.
After a good night’s sleep, it was time for day two’s adventures, where I got the chance to try two local delicacies: rum and chocolate! With the Caribbean Ocean as the backdrop, I sampled eight different types of rum created in St. Lucia, along with some homegrown chocolate.
The most popular rum among locals is Bounty Rum, available in many different flavours—lime, original, and my personal favourite, coconut. The rum selection progressed in flavour and strength up to the Admiral Rodney Rum, which everyone usually saves for special occasions like Christmas or New Year, so I felt very privileged to try it.
The Admiral Rodney is a nod to the naval history of the island and the nearby Rodney Bay, named after the Admiral himself. We also tried homemade chocolate in 65%, mint, and 80% cocoa varieties. I’m told the 80% is the healthiest chocolate for you, so of course I was all in!
After an evening of wonderful dining and a good night’s sleep accompanied by the sound of the ocean, it was time to move to our next hotel—but not without a visit to Castries, the capital of St. Lucia. The overall population of the country is 180,000, with a third living in Castries itself.
The focal point of the city is Derek Walcott Square, named after the Nobel Prize winner in literature from 1992. You’ll also find an elaborate Catholic cathedral nearby; The Minor Basillica of Immaculate Conception. The city is a popular port of call for cruises too. Visitors can browse the bustling local markets where you’ll find fresh produce, souvenirs, and local flavours such as banana ketchup! Castries is colourful and vibrant, with locals gathering and socializing on every corner, giving you real insight into daily life here.
Our next stop was Cap Maison, a beautiful property set on a gorgeous clifftop with an impressive vantage point. Their restaurant, ‘The Cliff at Cap,’ sits right on the edge of the property and is the most relaxing place to enjoy an evening meal or breakfast while gazing over the waves.
The hotel is also home to ‘The Naked Fisherman’ restaurant, built in 2013 and named after the men who used to fish au naturel in the local waters to blend in and make catching fish easier. The restaurant is in Smuggler’s Cove and can be reached by an impressive staircase of 94 steps down to the beach. Can you guess how many I had to climb to get back up? You guessed it—94! Don’t worry though, you get a helpful reminder of “only 10 more steps to go” on the way up, which was very reassuring when I was about ready to throw in the towel. This was the perfect setting for pre-dinner drinks while watching the gorgeous sunset, and completely worth the additional effort to reach this secluded spot.
Dinner was served in The Wine Cellar, which is exactly what the title suggests. This intimate setting was perfect for our small group to experience the fine dining that Cap Maison had to offer. Robbie, our server and sommelier, was delightful throughout the evening, telling us tales and origins of the food and wine we sampled. The General Manager, Ross, shared the story of how Robbie came to work at the property—his mother had worked there before him and simply told Ross he must employ her son. I have to say that Cap Maison served some of the best food I experienced during our time there. Even breakfast the following morning at The Cliff was à la carte and beautifully presented, with the Caribbean lobster benedict being a particular highlight.
After dinner, we enjoyed the Friday night ‘Jump Up’ party at Gros Islet. Perfect for younger travellers and the young at heart, it was a fantastic night of experiencing how the locals like to have fun. Local bars had tables out on the streets with Piton Beer and rum punch on sale, and the smell of Caribbean food filled the air. This was so much fun—I even joined in with the dancing, with the locals showing me how it was done.
The next day, it was time to see the island from a different angle—possibly the only way to truly appreciate the scenery and history—by speedboat. As we traveled south, the waves lapped the side of the boat, sending up a gentle spray to cool us down.
Our guides pointed out more hotels along the route, as well as famous filming locations from the original Dr. Doolittle film and Pirates of the Caribbean—places that would make fun visits for families too. Just before we reached our first destination, we came across ‘Lovers Arch.’ It’s said that if couples sail under the arch, they will be blessed with another ten years of marriage.
Waiting for us above the arch were cliff divers—young men who performed acrobatics while diving off the cliff into the ocean, then approached the boat to be tipped for their impressive display. This was an alternative way for them to make money rather than finding themselves in mischief, which I was more than happy to support, and their tricks were brilliant.
Continuing our journey, it was time for the big finale of the ride. We rounded the corner to be met by the gargantuan Pitons—Gros Piton and Petit Piton (although this name doesn’t quite seem fitting!). These beautiful natural structures jut out of the sea in the most majestic way and really are a sight to behold.
Tucked high up into the hillside just before Petit Piton was one of the hotels I had eagerly been wanting to visit since we arrived: Jade Mountain. This incredible hotel has impressive architectural design and some of the best views on the island. I had known about this hotel since my travel journey started through various TV shows, so being here was a really special moment for me.
Aside from the amazing views, the other unique aspect is that all of the rooms are open to nature instead of having a fourth wall. Some also come with infinity pools or jacuzzis, so you can relax and take in the beauty of the Pitons from the comfort of your own room.
It was time to say goodbye and move on to our final home for the night: Sugar Beach Viceroy Resort. While Jade had magnificent views from above, Sugar Beach was situated in the most prestigious location—right between the two Pitons with a lovely white sandy beach.
We arrived by boat and were greeted by cold towels and refreshing drinks made with local honey and fruits. Accommodation here is mostly in the form of whitewashed, chic villas with private pools, plus a private butler—very fancy indeed! We enjoyed fine dining at SALTWOOD, and I must say that all the food and beverages I encountered on this trip were exceptional—something the St. Lucians do very well. The pan-seared mahi-mahi with local spices was particularly memorable.
Our next stop brings me back to the chocolate of St. Lucia. The island is scattered with cocoa plantations, and legend says that if locals had cocoa, they had money. Chocolate was a luxury item that only the rich could afford, so cocoa beans held much value. This is where the saying “money doesn’t grow on trees” is said to have originated—because once upon a time, it did!
A short drive from Sugar Beach is Project Chocolat, run by the world-famous chocolate brand Hotel Chocolat. Our guide John met us on arrival and explained the whole process, from tree planting to chocolate making. The little scientist in me was thrilled to learn interesting facts about this process, including how they graft trees together to create hybrid plants that provide the best cocoa. This was a fun experience followed by a street food-style lunch with all options containing some form of chocolate—the cocoa mac and cheese was delicious!
Our final day on this wonderful island came around quicker than I would have liked. After a day of relaxation on the beach, it was time to bid fond farewells to the charming locals. The impression St. Lucia has left on me is one of wonderful memories and the curiosity to return and see more, so I will definitely be going back as a guest.
Throughout my stay, I also visited a few more favourite RB hotels; The Body Holiday, StolenTime, East Winds, The Landings, Rabot, Ladera and Anse Chastenet, all of which can be found on our website.
If you require more information on any of the resorts that catch your eye, I’ll be more than happy to chat you through them over a coffee.
Give me a call on 01543 258631 or email vip@rbcollection.com, and we can book you an appointment to visit us in our luxury travel lounge.
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