Sam visits AlUla, The New ‘Petra’
Sam CooperSaudi Arabia wasn’t initially high on my travel list, but when I was given the chance to visit this historic land, I eagerly accepted. Experiencing it firsthand erased any misconceptions, and I am truly thankful for the opportunity.
AlUla dates back to 5000 BCE, through the Bronze Age. Located in the desert of northwest Saudi Arabia with a population of just over 50,000, AlUla was strategically positioned on the historic incense and spice route, where travellers once paused to rest. It played a major role of transporting goods up to the Mediterranean and beyond.
To get there, I flew with Qatar Airways from Heathrow via Qatar directly into AlUla. This route offered convenient timings and seamless connections. Other options include Emirates/Fly Dubai, Turkish Airlines, and Saudia, though the best connections can vary by day. If you’re planning a trip to Saudi Arabia, AlUla works well as part of a longer itinerary if you want to really immerse yourself into Saudi Arabia, but equally it twins really well with the Middle East. My colleague, Oliver, has visited Damman and Riyadh so between us, we can offer the best expert advice.
View more of Sam’s photo’s from his trip on our Facebook page.
Upon arrival, AlUla’s small yet modern airport made for a smooth and welcoming experience. With only one flight in and out, customs and baggage collection were quick, and within 20 minutes, I met my hosts, who would guide me for the next few days.
Leaving the airport, we set off in a private 4×4. AlUla’s relaxed, calm atmosphere was far from the bustling cities I’d envisioned. Historically a farming community (nothing like Lichfield I promise), AlUla is home to over 2.5 million palm trees offering the best dates around.
Remarkably, AlUla has thrived for thousands of years thanks to a natural water source beneath the desert, a reminder that according to experts, the area was submerged underwater around 900 million years ago, leaving behind stunning rock formations.
My first stop was Old Town, a mud-brick settlement fully inhabited until the 1980s when air-conditioned buildings became the norm. Recently restored, The Old Town now boasts boutique shops, restaurants, and coffeehouses, all set against a breathtaking backdrop of blue skies and rugged rock faces.
Unlike some historic towns, there’s no bustling market or haggling; the locals are respectful and welcoming. The Old Town seamlessly connects to the newer area via a pedestrian walkway, and by evening, it truly comes alive. Families, friends, and locals gather, creating a warm and vibrant atmosphere. I felt very safe, and the local people’s hospitality made me feel right at home.
The next day we visited one of Saudi Arabia’s most significant archaeological sites, Hegra which features well-preserved tombs dating back to the 1st century, with facades intricately decorated. Once the second-largest city after Petra in Jordan, Hegra held a strategic position on the incense and spice route.
Tours of Hegra, whether in a private vintage Land Rover or coach, take you through its fascinating history and impressive tombs. A highlight within Hegra is Elephant Rock, a natural formation resembling an elephant reaching its trunk to the ground. Located a 20-minute drive from Old Town, it’s especially stunning at sunset.
As the sun sets, Elephant Rock is illuminated, creating a magical scene, enhanced by soft background music. I visited at sunset, then had dinner here under the stars, great atmosphere and very casual.
The following day, we visited Dadan, an ancient city in AlUla. A museum at the entrance provides a vivid account of the site’s history, with guides sharing their deep knowledge and enthusiasm. Excavations at Dadan are ongoing, with only about 5% of the site uncovered. Dadan’s tombs and carved chambers are a testament to the skill and artistry of the Dadan and Lihyan civilizations over 2,000 years ago. These cliffside tombs, set against red cliffs, draw global archaeological interest as one of the few remnants of this ancient capital.
We then visited the Oasis, near Old Town. Historically, locals spent summer months here to escape the intense heat, finding shade, cooler temperatures, and water from the underground supply. In winter, they moved to Old Town, which was designed with dense mudbrick structures and narrow pathways to retain warmth during the colder nights, when temperatures can drop as low as 3 or 4 degrees Celsius.
In the Oasis, palm trees here are invaluable, providing dates, wood, and materials for constructing the region’s mudbrick walls and buildings. When you are walking around as a visitor, you get to see working farms within the Oasis, which have been here for generations. It’s a calm place to explore underneath the lush palms. Today, it is a popular gathering place for families, where they can relax in nature’s embrace.
AlUla’s remote desert location, far from city lights, makes it perfect for stargazing. I spent one unforgettable evening with an astronomer, lying on cushions beneath a clear sky. The astronomer explained how people once used stars for timekeeping, marking seasons, and navigation, essential knowledge in such an unforgiving landscape. This night featured a supermoon, which, while stunning, made me think that an ordinary night might offer an even clearer view.
Another highlight was a hot air balloon ride, though the 4:30am start might not appeal to everyone, I’d recommend it as the views were breathtaking, no better way to get see AlUla come together in one image, the circular farmlands, the Oasis and the distant views of Hegra and Dadan.
Looking one way, you could see the sun rising, the bright orange sky as the sun was coming up, then as I turn my head, the moon in the pastel blue sky, it was like the changing of the guard in mother nature. Until this point, I had never been on a hot air balloon ride before, and I was so pleased I managed to tick this experience off my bucket list.
During my stay in AlUla, I explored three different properties to fully experience the variety of accommodations. However, the one I would wholeheartedly recommend to my clients is the Banyan Tree AlUla, located just a 10-minute drive from Hegra.
This property is without a doubt a tranquil desert sanctuary. With no fences or walls, the views are uninterrupted— you are surrounded by striking rock formations all around you and the only man-made object you can see is a glimpse of a mirror like object which is Maraya, a stunning mirror-clad music venue that has hosted world-renowned artists like Andrea Bocelli and John Legend.
The property’s standout feature is its incredible pool, nestled dramatically between two massive rocks. The villas are thoughtfully spaced, each with ample outdoor areas and a shaded tent to maximize outdoor comfort. Stargazing from your room is an unforgettable experience, and the entire property has a sleek, warm and fresh feel. The service is impeccable, the food is outstanding, and overall, this is a destination I would highly recommend.
On reflection, I thoroughly enjoyed AlUla, and I felt so lucky that I got to see and learn all about the wonderful history that this land has. It works well as a destination in its own right, or as part of a wider tour of Saudi Arabia. With easy connecting flights, it also works very well as a twin centre with the likes of Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Ras Al Khaimah and Doha in Qatar to name a few. Why not experience the history of AlUla then relax on the beach?
With a number of options available to you, I can help explain the options so do give me a call on 01543 258631 or email vip@rbcollection.com to plan your special trip to AlUla in Saudi Arabia.
View more of Sam’s photo’s from his trip on our Facebook page.
